![]() ![]() ![]() Usually use aggressive entries and throw the car and then just add a lil handbrake to extend if needed, havent driven too many twisty technical courses where you're transitioning between throttle handbrake and footbrake constantly. To be completely fair though I'm not sure if Ive ever tried foot-braking while on the handbrake. It has pedal interference, but never experienced the locking issue. Oh and personally the compbrake hydraulic is nice. If I hadn't throw away so much crap during last years move I'd have the setup prototyped already. I'll over to Harri's place in the next day or so and try them out on an E36 rear end he has laying around. Have 6 of these calipers at the shop right now. Is there enough room to run extra calipers? This is a similar setup on a 03 mustang cobra You could also use another stock caliper and cut off a bracket from a junk car or another set of trailing arms and swap sides so the bleeders will be right side up cut your backing plate and mount the calipers forward of the normal ones. I am waiting for his setup to be done before I reconfigure my system. Im not sure when he will be done but I do know he is in the process of test fitting it. Meaning you can run your ebrake to half of the caliper and your normal brakes through the other half. So the two pistons on the top are seperate from the 2 pistons on the bottom. Well Sean Love is working on a setup for the E36 that would use a set of 4 piston calipers for the rear and each caliper has a seperate brake curcuit. Powered by max or comp brake make the best hydro's. We guarantee a leak free start up if this product is installed correctly.īBE means Brake Booster Eliminator and OEMC means OE Master Cylinder (stock).īe sure to check the Chase Bays Hydro Handbrake.Nah stay away from the ksports if you can, they look cool but the master cyl is china boop and goes bad very quickly. We use the best components in the industry and we pressure test every line we assemble. The kit uses -3AN stainless steel braided, Teflon PTFE lined, black PVC coated lines. If you ever change from inline to standalone setup, you will just connect the rear brake line(s) in the engine bay and at calipers like you had before, and then use this existing kit to connect to your new calipers. This does eliminate the entire hardline that runs under the chassis and the lines that currently connect to your calipers. We use bulkhead fittings to pass thru the chassis metal so either smoke or weather doesn't have another path to get into the cabin. It will then run from the Handbrake OUT section to the back of the car directly to the calipers. Then in either scenario it goes to the Handbrake IN side. It starts at the factory master cylinder OR if you have the Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation for Brake Booster Eliminator it starts at the Bias Valve OUT side. Essentially creates a detour for the fluid. Inline / Pass Thru Type - This is to be plumbed between the existing rear brake line to lock up the existing rear calipers on each side. ![]() It goes directly from the Handbrake Master Cylinder to the secondary calipers on the rear knuckles. Stand Alone Type - This is to be paired with dual rear caliper setup or stand alone rear braking system. The Chase Bays Hydro Hand Brake Line Kit is designed for those who want to easily plumb a hydraulic hand brake into their SXE10 chassis. ![]()
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